Patrick Cooper Key Takeaways
- The prefix identifies the appliance family: E plus two digits is laundry, a single digit behind E is the cooktop, F is the oven or range, i is the dishwasher, and two plain letters are refrigeration.
- The same digits mean different things across families — cooktop E4 is a temperature sensor, washer E40 is a door lock fault.
- Laundry codes follow cycle order: the tens are water in, the twenties are drain, the forties are the door lock, the sixties on a dryer are heating.
- Refrigeration codes are alarms rather than stopped cycles, so the appliance keeps running while HI, OP or dH is displayed.
- Photograph the display before clearing anything — the code disappears on reset and is the cheapest diagnostic information you will get.
The Bottom Line
Identify the family from the prefix before you look up the number, because Electrolux reuses digits across appliances. If the code names a control board, a latch motor or a heating relay, stop and book a diagnostic instead of resetting it again.
Three characters appear on the display, the cycle stops, and the manual is somewhere in a drawer. Electrolux does not use one numbering scheme across the whole kitchen and laundry room, which is why a code that looks familiar can mean something entirely different on the next appliance. This Electrolux error codes list groups them the way the machines actually group them, so you can tell within a few seconds which family you are looking at and how serious it is.
| Prefix | Appliances that use it | What it usually points at | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| E + two digits | Washers, dryers | Water, drain, door lock, heating circuit | E10 water supply, E20 drain, E40 door lock, E63 heater circuit |
| E + one digit | Induction cooktops | Control module, sensors, pan detection | E0 control module, E3 no pan detected, E4 temperature sensor |
| F + two digits | Ovens, ranges | Temperature sensing, door latch, control board | F10 open sensor, F14 board software, F90 latch motor |
| i + digits or letters | Dishwashers | Water in, water out, leak protection, boards | i20 drain, i30 leak protection, i40 fill |
| Two-letter alarms | Refrigerators, freezers, ice makers, wine units | Temperature alarms, fans, defrost, doors | HI high temp, dH defrost heater, OP door open |
| PF | Nearly everything | Power was lost and has come back | PF on a cooktop, fridge, microwave |
Read the Prefix Before You Read the Number
The single most common mistake owners make is matching a number they found online against the wrong appliance family. E4 on an induction cooktop is a temperature sensor that has gone open or disconnected. E40 on a front-load washer is a door lock fault. The digits look related and the causes have nothing in common.
So start with the shape of the code, not the value. A two-digit number behind an E belongs to laundry. A single digit behind an E belongs to the cooktop. An F belongs to the cooking cavity, whether that is a wall oven or the oven in a freestanding range. An i belongs to the dishwasher. Two plain letters, with no number at all, belong to something that holds a temperature.
E Codes: Washers, Dryers and Cooktops
Laundry codes are organized by which part of the cycle failed. The tens digit is the clue. Anything in the tens is about getting water in; anything in the twenties is about getting it out; the forties are the door lock; the sixties on a dryer are all heating.
- E10 and E11 mean water supply fault and fill timeout — the machine asked for water and did not get enough of it in time.
- E20 and E21 mean drain fault and slow drain timeout, which in practice is the pump filter, the hose, or the standpipe.
- E40, E41 and E42 are the door lock: fault, not secured, and lock mechanism failure. The drum will not move while any of them is posted.
- E61 through E66 live on the dryer and describe the heating circuit, from insufficient heating through open heater circuit to heating relay failure.
Cooktop codes use a single digit and are unrelated to any of the above. Our page on the cooktop E4 fault is the one people land on most often, usually after searching a number without saying which appliance it came from.
F Codes: Ovens and Ranges
Ovens and ranges use an F with two digits, and the groups are tight. The tens are the oven temperature sensor and the control board itself: F10 is an open sensor circuit with no feedback reaching the board, F11 is that same sensor shorted, F13 is an EEPROM fault where the board cannot read its own stored configuration, and F14 is a control board software fault.
The thirties repeat the story for the meat probe circuit rather than the cavity sensor. The nineties are all door latch: motor stuck, switch not responding, and on a range, internal latch motor failure. If a code in the nineties appears at the end of a self-clean cycle, the door may stay locked until the fault clears, which is the latch doing its job rather than failing.
i Codes and the Letter Alarms
Dishwashers use an i and count in tens in cycle order: i20 drain fault, i30 leak and flood protection, i40 water fill fault, i50 wash pump overcurrent, i60 heating or temperature sensor fault. The iC group is the electronics — board communication, user interface power, and interface memory. We cover these in detail in our guide to Electrolux dishwasher error codes.
Refrigeration is different again. A fridge, freezer, wine unit or ice maker has no cycle to fail partway through, so it raises alarms instead: HI and LO for temperature out of range, OP for a door left open, dH for a defrost heater fault, and SY groups such as SY EF for an evaporator fan fault. These are conditions, not stopped cycles, and the appliance keeps running while they are displayed.
What to Do Before Anyone Opens the Cabinet
Codes are cheap information and they disappear the moment you clear them, so capture them first. Photograph the display. Note whether the code returned after a power cycle, because a fault that clears and stays away often really was a one-off power event.
- Write the code exactly as shown, including letters and leading zeros, then note which appliance it came from.
- Pull power for five minutes at the breaker, restore it, and see whether the code returns on a fresh cycle.
- Check the obvious physical cause for that family: the pump filter for drain codes, the lint path for dryer heat codes, the pan for a cooktop.
- Stop there if the code involves the control board, the door latch motor, or a heating relay. Those are behind live terminals.
- Look up the exact page in our Electrolux error code library before ordering any part.
When the Code Keeps Coming Back
A code that returns on every cycle is telling the truth about a component, and a code that appears at random is often telling the truth about a connection. Neither improves with repeated resets. The cost of guessing is almost always higher than the cost of one correct diagnosis, because the expensive Electrolux parts — boards, latch motors, sealed system components — are rarely returnable once fitted.
Our appliance diagnostics service exists for exactly this: a technician reads the stored fault history, not only the code on the screen, and tests the circuit the code names. Diagnostics start from $120. The final price is confirmed after the on-site diagnosis, and you get a written estimate before any work begins. You can book a visit or send us the code and the model number and we will tell you what it points to.